‘I wish I could turn out that moral voice inside me that says eating animals is murder, but I guess I’m just not as strong as you are.’
‘That’s because you need protein.’
It’s likely that the default dietary setting in the Middle Ages was vegetarian or near-vegetarian, since unless you lived by the sea meat would have been expensive to buy and probably illegal to hunt. Stringently enforced forest laws in England and Wales, though perhaps not as draconian as Walter Scott would have us believe, made poaching an extremely risky enterprise to peasant labourers. Rivers were often subject to similar prerogative laws, and it is well known that certain animals – swans, sturgeons and whales – were the exclusive preserve of the monarch. Small landholders may have kept food animals such as pigs, but the staple diet of your average English medieval peasant would have mainly consisted of pulse-based stews or pottages and rye or barley bread.
Peasants tended not to keep recipe books, and these therefore emphatically do not reflect what the peasantry would have eaten. Richard II, at whose court The Forme of Cury was written, ate a great deal of meat, and on days when meat was precluded by Church dietary laws, he would eat fish. So when I proposed cooking from The Forme of Cury this week and was alerted to a guest’s longstanding vegetarianism, I considered that we might have a problem. The book contains about 200 recipes. 83 of these contain no meat or optional meat (or lard), although far fewer also contain no dairy or egg. Only 12 of these recipes can be considered main courses: the bulk of the 83 are puddings, sauces and sides, with two recipes for spiced wine, and of course the seventeen sauces themselves were to be served with meat. Many of these tentatively vegetarian recipes still require ‘broth’, which was most likely made from animal bones. An example:
Ryse of flessh
Take ryse and waisshe hem clene, and do hem in an erthen pot with gode broth and lat hem seeþ wel. Aftirward take almaund mylke and do þerto, and colour it wiþ safroun & salt, & messe forth.
To cut a very long story short, this is risotto made with meat stock. Heston Blumenthal does a version of it at his restaurant Dinner with calf tail, but I was consigned to using vegetable stock. A perfectly adequate, if un-Ricardian, side dish, it will come as no surprise that it tastes far better with flessh than without.
Would you like some meat with your meat?
One of the guests was lactose intolerant, so the holistic vegetarian-ness of the evening was scuppered by the fact that, like in Alpine France, there are literally no main recipes in The Forme of Cury that contain neither cheese nor meat. So on the no-dairy side, we had the ominously named tartes of flessh, and on the no-meat side, an adaptation of rauioles, an early pasta dish that I made with eggy bread. We had several vegetable side-dishes made with meatless broth, and (super-anachronistic) fro-yo after a fourteenth-century fruit recipe, which was described as ‘Christmas on a stick’. This may be the greatest compliment I have ever received.
Medieval food is obviously a gimmick (albeit one of academic interest to me), so one can hardly read ones dietary behaviour in what one prepares. Nonetheless, the sheer difficulty of assembling a meal without meat was jarring. I eat meat, although I know there are many ethical and medical reasons not to. What struck me as particularly odd about The Forme of Cury in the context of current social discourse on food is that meat, sugar and salt were formerly undeniable status symbols; we now hear both that meat, sugar and salt are the most problematic excesses in a modern western diet, and that healthy eating has become the preserve of the economic elite.
In general, we eat far too much meat. Much of this no doubt stems from the industrialisation of livestock farming, but it is a curious irony that the diet of a medieval peasant, consisting mainly of lentils and rye, should now be associated with organic-cashmere trustafarians and pushy middle-class parents. The colossally unsustainable production and consumption of meat is a far cry from the careful stocking of fishponds for a tiny ruling class, but is it really much more democratic? From Jamie’s School Dinners to horsemeat lasagne, we are under no illusion that the budget meat we demand from supermarkets may be nothing of the sort, and all the while rare and expensive foods are still sought by those who can afford them, as happened with spices in ancient and medieval Europe, with pineapples in the Early Modern period, and with extravagantly bland river fish in The Count of Monte Cristo.
Just as the Queen doesn’t have a state banquet every night, perhaps Richard took private meals of porridge and leeks. But it seems unlikely. Few cases of vegetarianism are recorded amongst non-ascetics in the medieval West. Aquinas himself argued that humankind’s divine mandate to care for the beasts of the earth doesn’t forbid eating them. In a circular manner, perhaps God’s Annointed, who would later starve to death in prison, thus had the best available argument to pig out, which it seems he certainly did. This is perhaps the most extravagant recipe in The Forme of Cury:
Cokagrys
Take and make [mincemeat], but do þerto pynes and sugur. Take an hold roste cok; pulle hym & hylde hym al togyder saue þe legges. Take a pigg and hilde hym fro þe myddes dounward; fylle him ful of þe [mincemeat], & sowe hym fast togeder. Do hym in a panne & seeþ hym wel, and whan þei ben isode, do hem on a spyt & rost it wele. Colour it with ȝolkes of ayren and safroun. Lay þeron foyles of gold and of siluer, and serue hit forth.
What’s for dinner? Gout.